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Guide · Sheep Flystrike · Crutching · Fly traps · Treatment

Flystrike on a small block: when it starts, how to spot it, and what to do

Flystrike doesn't start on a date in a magazine. It starts when the blowflies turn up on your place, and that's a different day every year. How to get in front of it on a lifestyle block, how to spot a struck sheep early, and what to do when you find one.

Written October 2026. From a working lifestyle block in Northland, New Zealand.

Get in front of it with dags, worms and timing. Then check often.

Flystrike is maggots eating a live sheep. It moves fast, it's miserable for the animal, and it can kill. The good news for a small block is that most of the prevention costs nothing but timing: keep back ends clean, keep worms under control so sheep don't scour, and crutch or shear before the risk peaks, not after.

After that, it comes down to two habits. Know when the flies arrive on your place, which a cheap trap tells you. And look at your sheep often enough to catch a strike in its first day, not its third. On ten acres that's a quick walk past the mob, and it's the single biggest difference between a small job and a dead ewe.

What is flystrike?

Blowflies lay their eggs on damp, dirty wool or on open wounds. The eggs hatch into maggots, and the maggots release enzymes that break down the skin and flesh underneath so they can feed. A strike that starts as a small damp patch can become a large open wound within days. Struck sheep lose weight, and without treatment they can die from infection and starvation.

It isn't only a welfare issue, it's a legal one. New Zealand's Code of Welfare for sheep and beef cattle has a minimum standard just for flystrike. It says all reasonable steps must be taken to prevent, or identify and manage, the risk of flystrike, and that affected sheep must receive appropriate treatment at the earliest opportunity. The code's own list of ways to do that is a good checklist: frequent inspections, treating damaged skin such as footrot, crutching, dagging or shearing before risk periods, parasite control to prevent dags, grazing management, and insecticides where needed.

Which flies cause it?

Beef + Lamb New Zealand names four blowfly species behind flystrike in this country: the Australian green blowfly, the European green blowfly, the brown blowfly and the hairy maggot blowfly.

You don't need to tell them apart. Two things are worth knowing, though. First, the Australian green blowfly was first recorded here in 1984, and vets now describe it as the most prevalent and significant strike fly in New Zealand. Second, the species turn up at different times and in different conditions. That's part of the reason no single calendar date ever fits every block or every year.

When does the risk start?

The usual answer is roughly November to March, in warm, humid weather. Blowflies like the same conditions that make grass grow. Warmth and recent rain, especially rain in summer, push the risk up. Windy, cool days push it down, because the flies are less active.

That's fine as a rough guide and not much use as a plan. In a warm, wet spring the flies are early. In a cold one they're late. And a sheltered gully on your block can be weeks ahead of an open paddock down the road.

So the useful question isn't "when does flystrike season start?" It's "when did it start here last year, and the year before?" Almost nobody knows, because almost nobody wrote it down. The fly trap section below is how you find out.

Which paddocks are worst?

Beef + Lamb NZ's advice is to identify the hot spots on your farm and avoid them in high-risk periods. Their list:

Anywhere warm, still and sheltered. For high-risk stretches they suggest moving sheep to higher, more exposed ground, where it's cooler and windier, and avoiding intensive grazing.

Read that with your own place in mind. Most people already know which two paddocks are worse than the rest. They just know it as a feeling, not as a rule. Write those paddocks down now, while it's calm, so the decision is already made in January when you're tired and in a hurry.

The free half of prevention does most of the work.

A struck sheep is almost always a sheep that gave the flies somewhere damp and dirty to lay. Take that away and most of the risk goes with it.

None of this is complicated. The hard part is doing it at the right time, which is why the next section matters.

A fly trap: the cheapest early warning on any block.

The monitoring method Beef + Lamb NZ describes is a small fly trap baited with offal, checked weekly. When you start catching blowflies, that's your signal to act: crutch, shear, check the mob more often, consider protection, and move stock away from the hot spots.

A commercial farm might run several traps. On a lifestyle block you need one, hung in your worst paddock, and a look on your way past once a week.

What that gives you is a date. Not "it felt early this year", but a real date, on your block. Do it once and it's interesting. Do it three years running and you have something no magazine or Facebook group can give you: your own window, which tells you when to book the crutching before you need it.

How to spot a struck sheep.

A strike caught in its first day is a small job. Caught on its third, it can be a vet bill or worse. NZ vets describe these signs:

Where to look: the breech and tail area first, then over the shoulders, where wool stays wet. Also check the feet of any sheep with footrot, and around cuts or any other wound.

What to do when you find one.

This is the general approach NZ vets describe. Follow the label of whatever product you use, and call your vet for anything beyond a small, early strike.

  1. Get the sheep in and away from the mob so you can see what you're dealing with.
  2. Clip the wool around the struck area and a margin beyond it, so you can see the edges and the dressing can reach the skin. Take care not to cut the skin.
  3. Remove all the maggots, checking under the clipped edge and in any pockets. Some will be deeper than they look, which is why you clip a margin around the strike.
  4. Apply a dressing labelled for treating flystrike, as the label directs. Dressings have withholding periods too, so note it.
  5. Give food, water and shade, and keep checking the sheep daily until it has healed. While the mob is in, check the rest of them too.

Call the vet if the strike is large or deep, if the sheep is dull or off its feed, or if you're not sure. Vets may give antibiotics and anti-inflammatory pain relief, and they can tell you whether the animal will recover. The welfare code's general rule applies: signs of ill-health must lead to timely action, and significant injury or ongoing pain needs veterinary advice.

📌 Worth knowing

One NZ vet practice reports that around 80% of flystruck ewes turn out empty at scanning. A strike costs more than the treatment. That's another reason to catch it on day one.

Fly products: two rules, and no recipes.

This guide doesn't name products. The right one depends on your stock, your region, what's in the bottle and what still works where you are. Your vet or farm store can help you choose. Two rules from Beef + Lamb NZ apply whatever you use.

Two practical points from vets. Preventive products work less well when they're applied wrongly, when the fleece is heavily soiled, or when heavy rain follows application, so read the label for conditions. And prevention products and treatment products are often different things: a product that protects clean wool for weeks is not necessarily the right thing for an open wound.

For the full detail on the fly life cycle and how to read a chemical label, the standing reference is the free Managing Flystrike and Lice guide from Beef + Lamb NZ, Merino NZ and the Sheep and Beef Cattle Veterinarians.

Not just sheep.

Sheep are by far the most commonly affected, but vets point out that flystrike can happen in any animal with an open wound or skin damage. Rabbits, long-haired dogs and cattle with skin lesions such as skin cancer can all be struck. On a mixed block, the same rule applies to everything: a wound or a dirty back end in warm weather needs checking every day until it's clean and healed.

Keeping track of it.

Flystrike runs on a yearly clock, and that's exactly what memory is bad at. The things worth writing down:

That's what My Block Hand is for. Sheep have Shearing and Crutching / dagging as care types, set to come round again on their own. Fly strike treatment is a treatment type for any animal or the whole mob, and it records the product and works out the date the withholding clears. A weekly trap check can be a repeating job, so it turns up without you having to remember it. And each animal's history keeps its strikes, so you can see which ones get struck again and again.

📲 Using My Block Hand?

The Animals help guide covers recording a treatment for one animal or a whole mob. The Products & chemicals guide covers keeping your fly products with their withholding periods, and the Jobs & reminders guide covers setting up a weekly trap check.

What this guide cannot do for you.

This is general information for lifestyle-block owners, written from Northland. It doesn't recommend any product, and it can't see your sheep. Fly pressure, weather and resistance vary a lot from place to place. For a struck animal that's more than a small, early strike, or for a plan that suits your block, talk to your vet.

Where the information on this page comes from.

Written October 2026, from a working lifestyle block in Northland, New Zealand. This is general information about flystrike. It doesn't recommend any product. For your own animals, talk to your vet.